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JACKSONVILLE NEIGHBORHOODS
DUVAL COUNTY COMMUNITIES
Argyle

Straddling the border of Duval and Clay is a community with a big future. Argyle, a family-friendly community of homes, schools and businesses, has evolved from the farmlands it once was. Since its inception in the early 1980s, the area continues to be a hot spot for affordable, quality housing. Its location near the now-closed Cecil Field Naval Air Station and Branan Field-Chaffee Road further stimulates growth.

It is close to Jacksonville Naval Air Station and Interstate 295. Shopping centers, restaurants, hospitals, schools and more are an easy commute. The surrounding area has seen a boom in commercial development. The Orange Park Mall, AMC-24 Theaters and a growing number of restaurants line Wells Road, just over the Clay County line near Argyle.

Being so close to both Clay and Duval counties, Argyle residents can take advantage of the benefits of both. Neighborhood parks, recreation centers and churches dot Argyle Forest Boulevard. Children who live in the Duval portion of Argyle attend Chimney Lakes Elementary, Jeff Davis Middle School and Forrest High School. Clay County Argyle students attend W.E. Cherry Elementary, Orange Park Junior High School and Orange Park High School.

Branan Field-Chaffee Road links Blanding Boulevard in mid-Clay County to Interstate 10 on Jacksonville's Westside, a north-south alternative to traffic on Blanding Boulevard and U.S. 17 in Clay County. Future plans for Argyle include Oak Leaf Plantation, which will be built at the intersection of Branan Field-Chaffee Road and Argyle Forest Boulevard. The project could redefine the area with a major mall, golf course community and other shopping and housing. Argyle residences most often on the market average in the mid-$120,000s.

Old Arlington
(Alderman Par, Arlingwood ,Glynlea, Grove Park, Spring Hill, Holiday Hills, University Park, Woodmere)

From its earliest days of settlements during the Spanish ownership of Florida, Arlington -- the community west of the Regency Square shopping area and north of Beach Boulevard -- has played an important role in Jacksonville's housing history. During the 1800s, lumber and grist mills were established and, after the Civil War, more homes were constructed. It also was the site of religious colonies and a popular railroad line.

Starting in 1950 and assisted by the opening of the Mathews Bridge in 1953, Arlington was the fastest-growing area in Duval County for the next 20 years. Arlington has since mushroomed far beyond its original boundaries. Real estate professionals familiar with the area see a renewed interest in some of the older homes, especially those with waterfront property. Some of these homes date back to the early 1900s.

According to Scarborough Research 2000, most of Arlington's households are mid-size, with two to five residents. A typical household has an income of between $50,000 to $100,000. Nearly a quarter of all homes are valued from $100,000 to $250,000. For many of these reasons, the area has become a hot spot for young up-and-comers, with 47 percent of the population ages 18 to 24 and 25 percent from 35 to 44. There are eight elementary schools, two middle schools and one high school, Terry Parker. Arlington Country Day, a small private school, is also in the area. Jacksonville University and Jones College offer higher education choices.

New Arlington

It hasn't been that long since Butler Boulevard was a two-lane road, meandering through tree farms and cow pastures on its way to the beach. Begun simply as an access road to the University of North Florida, it is now six lanes for most of its length and has brought shopping, new home communities and more roads. Homes in the region between Butler Boulevard along Hodges and Kernan roads to Atlantic Boulevard appeal to people of every income level. There are communities with homes priced around $100,000, new upscale neighborhoods with homes going for more than $1 million and everything in between. Gated golf communities, such as Jacksonville Golf & Country Club and Glen Kernan Golf & Country Club, have sprung up and sold quickly. It is rumored they will be joined soon by a new technology park near the University of North Florida campus and a new -- and extremely posh -- shopping, office and residential development near the intersection of Butler Boulevard and St. Johns Bluff Road.

Schools in the neighborhood are already a big drawing card. Chets Creek, Sabal Palm and Alimacani Elementary schools are new, growing and highly rated, as is Landmark Middle School. Both UNF and Florida Community College at Jacksonville have campuses in the region and are opening or planning new facilities.

Both Atlantic and Beach boulevards have been widened in recent years, and a new bridge is planned to replace the Intracoastal Waterway drawbridge on Beach Boulevard. Butler Boulevard is to be widened to six lanes from Southside Boulevard to Interstate 95, which should help traffic flow both into and out of town.

Atlantic Beach

Bordered by Kathryn Abbey Hanna Park to the north, Atlantic Boulevard to the south and the Intracoastal Waterway to the west, Atlantic Beach offers a small-town atmosphere with easy access to the ocean. Stretching only about 25 blocks from north to south, Atlantic Beach is a closed-end community with a neighborhood feeling. The town center, near the landmark Sea Turtle Inn, is a popular gathering point with many quaint eateries and boutiques. Atlantic Beach has plenty of parks with opportunities for a variety of activities such as tennis, racquetball, basketball, baseball and nature hikes, as well as playground equipment. In addition, the Bull Recreational Area houses the Atlantic Beach Experimental Theater, which puts on eight to 10 productions a year.

The community is dominated by single-family homes, with some townhouses and duplexes. Prices range from about $80,000 or $90,000 for a starter home to several million dollars for an oceanfront residence. Most single-family homes east of Sherry Drive or within three blocks of the ocean sell for $200,000 or more. Many Atlantic Beach residents work in the Jacksonville downtown or Southpoint areas, both a 30 to 45-minute commute.

Students attend Atlantic Beach Elementary and Mayport Middle School. Fletcher Senior High in Neptune Beach serves the ninth through 12th grades.

Community activities are an important part of the Atlantic Beach lifestyle. Popular events include the Farmer's Market; the annual Dancin' in the Streets festival in mid-May, which includes live bands, arts, crafts and food; a Christmas festival; and parent-and-children campouts in the city park several times a year. Although part of the greater Jacksonville Municipality, Atlantic Beach has its own mayor, city council, police and fire departments.

Beauclerc

Straddling the eastern bank of the St. Johns River at one of its widest points and nestled between Mandarin, San Jose and Baymeadows lies Beauclerc, an idyllic, tree-lined neighborhood conveniently located with easy access to greater Jacksonville. Sections of the neighborhood have developed an overhanging canopy effect, with the branches of trees on opposite sides of the roadway interlocking high above and providing a shaded pathway for residents to drive and walk under. Beauclerc homes have proven to be a great investment. Values tend to be greater than those of Jacksonville as a whole, with 21 percent of homes valued between $100,000 and $149,000, 12.6 percent between $150,000 and $249,000 and 6 percent above $250,000. The area's larger lots translate into homes with more floor space and bigger yards, some encompassing more than half an acre. Though many homes date from the 1970s, most homeowners have steadily updated interiors, giving most properties a modern touch with few renovations needed. Home styles range from traditional to contemporary to colonial, the variety of architecture stemming from the many different builders who constructed homes over the years. Many houses feature brick construction. Beauclerc is centrally located to shopping areas; proximity to Interstate 295 allows residents access to many other parts of the city. The St. Johns River marks the neighborhood's border, so boating is one of the area's popular recreational outlets. A number of marinas dot the area, including the Epping Forest Yacht Club, a half-mile north of the neighborhood. The club's centerpiece is a beautiful Spanish Renaissance-style mansion, originally built by a duPont family heir in 1927. Home buyers with children are attracted to the quality and proximity of local schools. Area students attend Beauclerc Elementary, Alfred duPont Middle School and Wolfson High School. Beauclerc is also home to the Bolles School's San Jose campus. The private school founded in 1933 serves grades 9 through 12. Beauclerc attracts a nice mixture of older and younger homeowners, is culturally diverse and gives residents a sense of place hard to find in other areas of the city.

Dames Point

There is a forgotten frontier in Jacksonville with an abundance of waterfront property and pristine views of the St. Johns, Trout and Broward rivers and Dunn Creek. It is an area where industry and nature coexist. Jacksonville's Northside is a diamond in the rough, offering an expanse of land to those desiring a quieter lifestyle and an area being mapped to handle growth with strategic planning. Although the area has been known primarily for industry, the tides are turning. People now see the Northside as incredibly convenient to downtown, Jacksonville International Airport (only a 15-minute drive), and varied recreational opportunities such as Big Talbot and Little Talbot islands, the Jacksonville zoo and Huguenot Park. The area also backs up to 56,000 acres of the Timucuan preserve. Three commercial strip malls are on the drawing boards for the area. One will be built at Interstate 295 and Lem Turner Road and anchored by Home Depot. A new 30,000-square-foot strip mall is going in across from First Coast High School and, behind it, 450 homes are under construction. Woodwing, a new industrial office park owned by the Jacksonville Port Authority, is also under way. The park will house offices and warehouses on 300 acres of land. With a scarcity of affordable waterfront property on the southside of Jacksonville, buyers are looking north, where waterfront property is still relatively affordable.

Deerwood and Tinseltown

The gated, golf club communities of Deerwood and Deer Creek set the stage for this area of town off Southside Boulevard. While there are numerous developments of moderately priced condominiums, apartment homes and single-family residences off Southside, Deerwood is the venerable locale with homes ranging from about $200,000 to $1 million or so.

Beautifically kept office parks and car dealerships are close by, while The Avenues mall is a 15-minute drive away.

The Tinseltown area, north of the Deerwood-Deer Creek area, is named for the CineMark Tinseltown Theater that was first on the site. Now, it has plenty of company as the area is among the fastest growing spots in the city. Already located there are numerous restaurants and nightspots, shops, hotel and offices. Upscale apartments near Tinseltown attract young singles, while luxury condos are also going up nearby.

Five Points

Five Points -- named for where Park, Margaret and Lomax streets come together from five directions -- is really part of the Riverside area, but stands on its own because of its unusual nature. Colorful storefronts, restaurants and funky specialty shops, some with a lot of 'tude, make up the retail part of this area. Within eyesight and walking distance are schools, churches, parks and the Cummer Art Museum & Gardens. You can see young folks with numerous piercings as often as you see men and women in business suits. Merchants and residents are continuing to try to establish the Five Points area as a Jacksonville arts district, already calling it an art-focused neighborhood. Apartments and rentals in the nearby divided large houses are the residences of choice.

Fort Caroline/East Arlington

Fort Caroline is an area less than 15 square miles east of downtown Jacksonville on the southern shore of the St. Johns River. It's a glimpse of old Florida with breathtaking views of rolling terrain and stately oaks. In their leisure time, families in Fort Caroline take advantage of their natural surroundings by hiking, exploring, kayaking and fishing. They don't have to go far: a protected nature preserve is practically in their backyard. Fort Caroline National Memorial, a part of the Timucuan Ecological and Historic Preserve, pays tribute to early French settlement efforts with a replica fort exhibit and visitor's education center. Just next door is St. Johns Bluff at Ribault Monument, a memorial to Jean Ribault, one of the area's first explorers. The view from the bluff offers a bird's-eye vista of the St. Johns River, once known as the River of May. Although development continues to soar, hundreds of acres in Fort Caroline will remain untouched because of their historic standing. Homes in Fort Caroline run the gamut from modest affordable homes starting in the mid-$80,000s to half-million-dollar-and-up river retreats. For home buyers in search of country club living, there's Hidden Hills. Founded in 1965, this private club offers golf, tennis and more.

Intracoastal

When you stop in one of the neighborhoods along the Intracoastal Waterway, taking in its vibrant ecosystem, you will see why so many residents have selected the area to call their home. It is, for all practical purposes, the city's eastern frontier, not quite the Beaches, not quite Jacksonville. It is a unique community, a place like no other in Northeast Florida. In addition to a peaceful atmosphere, the area also enjoys more moderate temperatures than in town as cool ocean breezes sift in.

The areas leading to the Intracoastal have seen quite a boom, too, particularly along Atlantic Boulevard. Developments have sprung up along Girvin and San Pablo roads offering a range of prices starting in the $70,000s. At Duval County's north and south Intracoastal boundaries are two gated communities, Queen's Harbour Yacht & Country Club on Atlantic Boulevard and Marsh Landing, just south of the Duval County line in Ponte Vedra Beach. Queen's Harbour, which has been steadily growing for the past 10 years, has been a big hit with boaters because of its easy Intracoastal and St. Johns River access through a freshwater lock system, and with golfers because of its Mark McCumber-designed course. Home sites are available from $110,000 and up, and homes begin in the $300,000s. On the south end of the Intracoastal, just past Butler Boulevard is Marsh Landing. The more tenured of these two communities, Marsh Landing opened in 1982. About 900 homes already have been completed with prices ranging from the mid-$300,000s to more than $4 million. Home sites start at $175,000 and go up to almost $2 million. Homes on the Intracoastal start at more than $1 million.

Jacksonville Beach

Jacksonville Beach is finally coming into its own. At one time, it was a commercial center, full of businesses, oceanfront hotels and residential rental property. Simply put, it was a nice place to visit or shop, but you wouldn't want to live there. As demand for homes anywhere at the Beaches continues to skyrocket, more people have found Jacksonville Beach's mix of everything from million-dollar plus oceanfront condos to the area's most affordable housing quite appealing.

Jacksonville Beach is a community of the active -- head out at just about any time of day and you'll see people bicycling along the ocean, sunning, or riding the waves on surfboards.

Cultural, music and entertainment events are often on stage in Jacksonville Beach. The new SeaWalk Pavilion, part of a $2.4 million downtown renovation project, is the focal point of beach festivals, which bring everything from blues legends to Latin bands to the stage. In the First Street entertainment district, you'll find the Freebird Cafe, which mixes food, local band Lynyrd Skynyrd memorabilia and every kind of music from old Southern rock to the newest local bands. Across the street is the Bukkets Baha Beach Club, one of the longest continuously open dance clubs in the city. Then there's the trendy Atlantic Restaurant and the Ocean Club, which feature everything from live, local, pop-song cover bands to jazz to reggae groups. Further along First Street, there's Lynch's Irish Pub, with its traditional Irish music some nights and local '80s or funk bands on others.

There's a vibrant arts community throughout Jacksonville Beach -- by day or night. You can hear classical music performed at St. Paul's-By-The-Sea Episcopal Church throughout the fall as part of the Beaches Fine Arts Series. There's also one of the Beaches' two community theater groups, Players-By-The-Sea, which moved into its new theater just off Beach Boulevard in 2002.

Property values are climbing steadily. The most affordable homes in Jacksonville Beach run approximately $120,000.

Lake Shore

A neighborhood reaching back from the shores of the Ortega, Cedar and St. Johns rivers, Lake Shore is a family community that consists of both modest residences and waterfront homes. It was primarily developed after the Jacksonville Naval Air Station boom in the 1940s.

Because of its major road access -- Blanding Boulevard, Cassat Avenue and Roosevelt Boulevard cross the area -- Lake Shore residents are a quick drive away from shopping at Roosevelt Square, restaurants, the river with its many recreational activities and downtown.

Lake Shore students are served by Bayview Elementary and Lake Shore Middle School, a 1942 building that underwent an almost-$13 million renovation completed in 1999.

The Better Jacksonville Plan will give needed help for drainage problems; a $2.9 million project should be finished by April.

LaVilla

From its years as a bustling transportation center in the late 1800s to the time when it swung to the beat of Ray Charles, Duke Ellington and Sarah Vaughan, LaVilla has had a colorful past. Its busy railway depot attracted thousands of travelers along Lee and Bay streets. In the early 1900s, its African American community of houses and entertainment venues flourished.

Today, after decades of urban decay and a controversial revitalization plan in the 1990s that left vacant lots where several longtime structures existed, LaVilla has been revitalized.

The Ritz Theater has been restored to its former glory. The LaVilla School of the Arts attracts talented students from across the county. Shiloh Metropolitan Baptist Church on Beaver Street opened a 5,000-seat sanctuary in May 2002. An increasing number of businesses are expanding or developing offices in the area.

While development in LaVilla -- 770 acres north and west of the central downtown business district -- has been commercial so far, a Jacksonville team might change that with a plan to build the first residences there in over 50 years. LaVilla Square Associates announced in early 2003 that it hopes to build 34 townhouses priced at an average of $180,000. Each townhouse would be 1,834 square feet.

Mandarin

Bordered by the Beauclerc area to the north, Julington Creek to the south and the St. Johns River to the west, Mandarin has been a popular family-oriented community for more than 20 years. It offers residents the amenities of an established community with a history, as well as the conveniences connected with the larger Jacksonville metropolitan area.

Most residences are single-family homes, priced from under $100,000, to more than $3 million for a riverfront estate. Quality education is a priority for most families considering relocation, and real estate experts agree that Mandarin has excellent schools with four elementary schools, two middle schools and Mandarin Senior High School. The area also offers various parochial and private educational facilities.

The community is central to Southpoint and Philips Highway businesses, making it a convenient commute for those who work in that busy corridor.

Downtown-area businesses, performing arts centers and Alltel Stadium are within a 20- to 25-minute drive.

Mandarin has a variety of shopping facilities and restaurants. Most residents have a grocery store and pharmacy within minutes of their homes.

Several synagogues as well as various churches serve the religious needs of Mandarin, which has about 40 houses of worship. River access and good neighborhood parks are another attractive feature. The community has many parks, both active and passive, several marinas and more waterfront views than any other area in Jacksonville. Other leisure activities and facilities include bicycling, bowling, swimming, horseback riding, miniature golf, baseball batting cages, golf practice ranges and tennis.

Mandarin's roots are said to date to the Civil War. The building that is home to the Mandarin Community Club was rebuilt in 1872 after a fire destroyed an earlier building on the site. Harriet Beecher Stowe, famed author of Uncle Tom's Cabin, spearheaded the project.

Mayport

Mayport is an eclectic mix of a beach community and quaint fishing town with a strong military presence. The area, previously a forgotten bedroom community of Jacksonville, is undergoing improvements, with even more planned for a place that's home to a fleet of shrimp boats, a large naval base, old Florida-style bungalows and numerous pelicans squatting on salt-warped pilings.

The Mayport Waterfront Partnership is dedicated to revitalizing the historic fishing village. The partnership includes business people, civic leaders and residents who organized through a state grant in 1997 to restore Mayport. Among other things, the group is developing new zoning standards, putting cable and phone lines underground, fixing streets and drainage problems and planning overall beautification efforts. The money for improvements comes from the state and the city of Jacksonville. In 1997, Mayport, identified as a working waterfront with a need for regeneration, was named one of three lead areas to be given the state grant. Road improvement is also being tagged as a major contributor to the village's success. The $110 million Wonderwood Connector, which will be finished late 2005-early 2006, will ease traffic patterns. Since Mayport is home to the Mayport Naval Station, many travel daily into and out of the area.

Besides Mayport's obvious draw of being close to the beach, the community also has a lot of other enticing qualities. It is home to Kathryn Abbey Hanna Park, the northernmost beach on the south side of the St. Johns River. This Jacksonville city park at the north end of Mayport Road has an uncrowded beach with high dunes that are densely forested on the inland side, a hiking trail and a small water park for children.

And, with its prime location between the Intracoastal Waterway and the Atlantic Ocean, Mayport is home to a major fishing industry. You can buy Mayport shrimp and other seafood fresh off the docks from many of the seafood companies that operate there.

Neptune Beach

The youngest and smallest of the Beaches neighborhoods, Neptune Beach has defined itself by becoming the closest thing to a suburban area among Jacksonville's oceanfront communities. Neptune Beach's boundaries run from Atlantic Boulevard to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the east, the Intracoastal Waterway to the west and Seagate Avenue to the south. According to Wayne Wood's Jacksonville's Architectural Heritage, Neptune Beach first came into being in 1931 when the citizens organized a tax revolt against the city of Jacksonville Beach for better services. Since 1989, it has operated under an elected mayor, council and city manager government. Commercial areas now include everything from clubs and restaurants to alternative medical centers and imported furniture stores. Legendary Pete's Bar is the granddaddy of all of Duval County watering holes, with the area's first liquor license, issued in 1933. It also was featured in John Grisham's novel The Brethren. Another Neptune Beach hot spot is the Sun Dog Diner, where, depending on the day of the week, you can hear funk, jazz, rock or folk music. Just as in Atlantic Beach and Jacksonville Beach, the ocean seems to cast some mystical spell over most of its nearby residents, calming and relaxing them, making them a little less likely to be upset by modern-day inconveniences. Another similarity Neptune Beach shares with the other beach communities is the steady rise in property values. Homes can range from about $100,000 to several million for an oceanfront property. All of the Neptune Beach public schools are highly regarded, including Neptune Elementary and Fletcher High.

Normandy and Hyde Park

Driving along Normandy Boulevard is like looking into the past and future all at once. The once rural area nestled on Jacksonville's Westside was once used mainly for dairy farming. Although large patches of land spotted with sprawling oaks, tall pines and grazing cattle still can be found, the area is now at the threshhold of major growth. With Jacksonville Naval Air Station and the former Cecil Field Naval Air Station close by, Normandy/Hyde Park has for years been a military community. The federal government closed Cecil Field in 1999, however, leaving some residents concerned about the future of the local businesses and their community. Any concerns are being put to rest, though, now that the city has the deed to the final portion of Cecil Field and plans to make at least $120 million in infrastructure improvements to parts of the 17,000-acre property, now known as Cecil Commerce Center. Part of the draw to the Normandy/Hyde Park community is its prime location, with easy access to Interstates 295 and 10. The area also is convenient to downtown, only a 10-minute drive. Jacksonville International Airport and shopping malls can be reached within 15 to 30 minutes, and the Beaches are about 40 minutes away. Residents also send their children to some of the best schools in Jacksonville -- Crystal Springs, Gregory Drive, Hyde Grove, Normandy, Normandy Village, Thomas Jefferson and Whitehouse are some of the elementary schools in the area. Middle schools are Joseph Stilwell, Jeb Stuart and Jefferson Davis, while high schools are Ed White, Forrest, Baldwin and the Frank H. Peterson Academies of Technology, a vocational skills center. Bishop Snyder, Jacksonville's second Catholic high school, serves families in this area. The community has strong family roots, with many families having lived there for generations. Some grandchildren even live in the houses once owned by their great-grandparents.

Oceanway

Amid the major development in Oceanway, the rural aspect of life -- the cows, the green fields and the lush forests -- remain as fixtures that embody the area. New communities are sprouting up everywhere, including along Busch Drive, Alta Drive, Starratt Road and New Berlin Road. Amelia View, a development with homes starting in the low $220,000s, features deep, navigable water and direct access to the Intracoastal Waterway, along with views across the Nassau Sound to Amelia Island. Home sites are expected to be a quarter- to a half-acre in size and the planned community amenities include lakes, gazebos, a pool and parks. Industry in Oceanway is alive and well. Industrial parks blend in with the landscape, and acres of undeveloped land surround businesses. Companies along busy Busch Drive include Anheuser-Busch, Smurfit-Stone Container Corp. and Bacardi Bottling Corp. Nature-based recreation is popular in this area with access to many water sources. Additionally, a public pond behind Oceanway Community Center on Sago Avenue West offers residents a place to fish and relax.

Ortega, Riverside and Avondale

The currents of the Ortega River have swept ashore a host of colorful characters: renowned botanist William Bartram; highwayman and cattle rustler Daniel McGirtt; and Don Juan McQueen, who attempted to establish a plantation on his 1791 Ortega land grant, but was forced out by the attacks of Georgians and the French. There was even a persistent rumor that gangster George "Machine Gun" Kelly and his wife were the mysterious couple who abruptly left their rented Grand Avenue home hours before a midnight police raid in 1933.

Present-day Ortega is defined by its rivers, tree-shaded home sites and parks and an eclectic collection of spectacular architectural styles. Mediterranean Revival homes sit side-by-side with colonial-style frame houses. Grand Tudors are alongside cedar-shingle homes.

Perhaps the most obvious characteristic of today's Ortega is its stability. It is well-known as a place to raise a family and to remain even after the children are grown and have left home. Roosevelt Square mall is just across the river, and the Ortega Village shopping area has its own array of retail and service businesses. The area's schools are another prime reason to make Ortega home. The Day School at St. Mark's Episcopal Church has an excellent reputation, as does St. Matthews Catholic School in Lake Shore. The public schools in the area are also award-winners. Many parents move to the area solely to give their children the opportunity to attend John Stockton Elementary in Ortega Forest, a national model school, and Ortega Elementary.

Also drawing residents is Ortega's physical beauty. The view of the city from across the water is spectacular, and there seems to be a park around every corner, including Seminole Park on the river, Cortez Park, which hosts Ortega's annual Fall Festival, and Stockton Park, a f avorite of fishermen from all over town.

In 1868, Confederate veteran Miles Price sold 500 acres of his property, known as Dell's Bluff, to a Yankee, Edward M. Cheney, and his financial backer, John M. Forbes of Boston, for $10,000 in gold. Forbes and Cheney built grand riverfront homes and waited for the influx of residents. For the next 30 years, however, they remained the only homeowners in the very rural area.

Riverside
On May 3, 1901, in less than 24 hours, downtown Jacksonville and the majority of the city's homes disappeared in a blazing inferno, sparked by a fire that spread from the Cleaveland Fibre Factory. With downtown Jacksonville in ruins from the Great Fire, residents relocated in droves to the suburbs, starting with Riverside. Soon riverfront on Riverside Avenue was lined with elegant mansions and, within 10 years, was being called one of the most beautiful streets in America.

Architects and construction companies from all over the country had followed the fire to Jacksonville, and Riverside benefited greatly. Innovative home designs were commissioned by lumber magnate Wellington W. Cummer and his two sons, Waldo and Arthur, Jacksonville's Mayor J.E.T. Bowden, Col. Raymond Cay and Episcopal Bishop Edwin G. Weed. Homes were designed by Mark & Sheftall, Henry J. Klutho and Addison Mizner.

Avondale
The expansion continued with the creation of Avondale, an exclusive development planned by a group of investors led by Telfair Stockton. Appealing unabashedly to the well-to-do, Avondale was a huge success with nearly 200 homes built in its first two years. Most of the residences were two stories and many were designed in the Mediterranean Revival style, which Mizner had earlier taken to South Florida and which became the strongest architectural statement of 1920s Florida.

Klutho brought the Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired Prairie style to Jacksonville. The simple bungalow, influenced by the Arts and Crafts Movement, made a big statement: along with Avondale, Riverside has the largest collection of bungalows of any neighborhood in Florida. Thanks to historically minded people and the Riverside-Avondale Preservation Association, much of that distinctive architecture remains today. You can see many houses with the brown RAP plaque symbolic of a restoration effort.

Developers are also continuing to take a fresh look at old buildings and finding innovative new uses for them.

Homes start at about $90,000 and can go into the several hundred-thousands. Riverfront mansions, of course, go for much higher.

St. Nicholas

St. Nicholas' history began in 1822 when the British settled the northern bank of the St. Johns River at the narrow crossing called the "cowford" and the Spanish fortified the Pass de San Nicolas along the southern bank, making it an important northerly point of defense for St. Augustine. The area south of the river near the former fort has continued to be known as St. Nicholas, a tribute to days of yore. After the Civil War and through the late 1800s, the area from the ferry landing to the Arlington River, including Empire Point, was referred to as the village of St. Nicholas.

St. Nicholas is a place where neighbors are really neighbors. Every December, the neighborhood has a holiday party complete with a visit from St. Nick and streets lined with luminaria. The neighborhood also has its own Easter egg hunt and Fourth of July celebration. The community, the heart of which lies where Beach and Atlantic boulevards meet, is a few minutes from Interstate 95, downtown and the San Marco shopping district. It also is home to two of the most respected private high schools in the area. Episcopal and Bishop Kenny both have beautiful campuses spotted with century-old oaks standing tall along waterfront property with spectacular views of downtown Jacksonville.

San Jose

Born of the Florida land boom in 1925 on the tree-shaded eastern bank of the St. Johns River, San Jose Estates was the most ambitious land development in North Florida in its day. Hotels, a yacht club, shopping center, schools, country club and hundreds of houses were planned. The best architectural, design and development firms were retained. A national advertising campaign was so successful that construction crews worked around the clock to meet the demands of prospective buyers from across the country. By late 1926, all construction on San Jose Estates had ceased. The Great Depression loomed on the horizon, and Florida's boom became a bust. Only one hotel, the country club and 31 houses were built. The development was dead, but the San Jose neighborhood lived on. Today, the San Jose Hotel is now the private Bolles School, the development's administration building has become San Jose Episcopal Church and the site of the never-built second hotel became the Alfred I. duPont estate, Epping Forest, now a yacht club surrounded by upscale homes and condominiums. Only San Jose Country Club still functions as it did upon completion. Through renovations have updated the clubhouse interior and facilities, the club's architecture remains intact.

In 1985, the remaining San Jose Estates structures were listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Many other architectural styles have found a home in San Jose, giving it an eclectic appeal, with a wide range of residential sizes and prices, as well. Houses start at an average of $95,000 and can reach over $1 million. Contributing to the community's good looks and overall allure are its sweeping trees and many parks, some quite large. Because of the area's excellent schools, San Jose is an ideal neighborhood for young families with children. Still, many couples stay in their large houses even after the children are gone because of their attachment to the community. The centralized location is minutes from downtown or Southpoint and well within a half-hour of Jacksonville's beaches. Fine restaurants and good shopping, including several large antique malls, add to San Jose's appeal.

San Marco

Red Bank Plantation House on Greenridge Road, the oldest known structure still standing in San Marco, was completed in 1857 by Albert Gallatin Philips, Jacksonville's sheriff from 1833 to 1839. Philips Highway, on the periphery of San Marco, was named for one of his sons, Judge Henry B. Philips.

No longer in existence, Villa Alexandria was the grandest structure of its time. Built in 1872 by Martha Reed Mitchell, sister of former Florida Gov. Harrison Reed, it stood on a 140-acre tract on the St. Johns River. Mitchell's home was a showplace and served as the center of her many charitable activities -- St. Luke's Hospital and All Saints Episcopal Church, among others. Mitchell's neighbors in the Fletcher Park area were 158 shipyard workers living in Henry Klutho-designed homes. World War I saw a boom in shipbuilding, creating in turn a need for housing for its workers.

Today, 12 of these homes surround Fletcher Park with its 1883 church, now home to the San Marco Preservation Society. Modern residential development came to San Marco with the 1921 completion of the St. Johns River bridge, later renamed the Acosta Bridge. Then came Telfair Stockton and his plans for an 80-acre subdivision called San Marco. Streets were curved to show off trees and scenic vistas and Lake Marco was formed out of an old brickyard. The mix of architectural styles reflected residents' strong interest in the outside world. In 1926, the commercial shopping district was laid out at the corner of Atlantic and San Marco boulevards.

Theatre Jacksonville, one of the nation's oldest continuously operating community theater groups, is housed in an Art Deco building dating from 1937. With its many-tiered fountain and wrought iron sculpture still intact, the area thrives today as home to an eclectic collection of trendy shops, theaters and restaurants.

Some homes can reach over $1 million, but there are many moderately priced houses starting at about $110,000. San Marco is served by Hendricks Elementary, Landon Middle and Wolfson High schools. Landon Middle School, completed in 1927, was built on a site settled by John and Mary Landon, who came to Jacksonville from Ohio after the Civil War. Their daughter, Julia, became a teacher at San Marco's first school.

San Mateo

Before 1956, the area known as San Mateo was mostly forest with huge oaks laden with Spanish moss, wild holly trees and an abundance of magnolias, hickories, pines and wildflowers. Wildlife was abundant.

In the winter of 1955-1956, though, development found the area and the first families began moving in. Now, the area is a quiet residential neighborhood of 50-year-old homes on the northern bank of the St. Johns River. The community name comes from the Spanish name given to the river in the 1560s, Rio de San Mateo (River of St. Matthew).

San Mateo, south of Oceanway, has very affordable homes.

The area takes pride in San Mateo Accelerated Academy, a magnet elementary school that repeatedly scores top grades in the Florida Comprehensive Assessment Test.

Southside

This is the confusing one ... Southside is really more of a general location than a pure neighborhood, but you'll hear it referred to quite often as where people live. San Jose is on the Southside, but so is Southside Estates, across the river and 15 miles away. Because we've outlined particular neighborhoods within Southside, we're identifying it here as north of Butler Boulevard, south of Atlantic Boulevard, east of University Boulevard and west of St. Johns Bluff Road.

Not surprisingly, Southside has a diverse mix of residential styles and offerings within its borders. Home prices in the area start at $70,000 and reach the $1 million range. Neighborhood offerings range from working class, single-family homes to gated communities with all the amenities. Young adults age 25 to 34 account for 27 percent of the area's population, while people age 65 and older account for 20 percent. There are a host of retailers and restaurants in the area, and Regency Square and The Avenues malls are just a short 10- to 20-minute drive away. Easy access to the St. Johns River through tributaries such as Pottsburg Creek, appeals to those interested in fishing and boating.

Southside has a mix of public and private schools for elementary through high school students, with close proximity to the University of North Florida off St. Johns Bluff Road and the Florida Community College at Jacksonville's South Campus off Beach Boulevard.

Springfield

There is a great deal of renewed interest today in living in the historic district of Springfield. Many believe it has a lot to do with the charm of the beautiful homes. Touring one, as many people have done over the past few years, is like opening a yearbook of the city, circa the late 1800s. Windows, porches, staircases, attics, and fireplaces yield page after page of historical glimpses of Jacksonville's past. New homes are being built that are architecturally compatible with the historic district's building guidelines for the area. A few of these homes that line Pearl Street look like rehabilitated homes, but they're new -- with many of the features people love in older-style homes, including the porches. The homes start in the mid-$130,000s and have standard features such as pre-wired security systems, semi-plank exterior siding, decorative foundation blocks, fiberglass shingles, all-wood kitchen cabinets, kitchen appliances, ceramic tile and double-hung wood exterior windows. Beyond the crop of new historic-looking homes, some of the area's authentic homes, with rich histories behind them, are capturing people's attention. Popular styles include Florida vernacular, bungalow, Prairie and transitional Queen Anne/Colonial Revival. Henry J. Klutho, who was influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright's architecture, began experimenting with the Prairie style in Springfield. The aesthetically pleasing style endures today. The real estate market in Springfield is very active. Many buyers are purchasing homes at low prices, then rehabilitating them. Experts advise, however, that it requires a good bit of cash and even more patience to undertake a restoration project. In 1987, Springfield was selected as a National Register Historic District under federal criteria and recognized under federal law. Only two other areas in Jacksonville, Avondale and Riverside, hold the title. A historic gem worth revitalizing, Springfield contains one of the largest concentrations of residences dating from the early-1800s in Florida.

Timuquana and Venetia

With an area along one of the most scenic stretches of the St. Johns River, the Venetia and Timuquana area is a little bit of heaven.

Southeast of Ortega off Roosevelt Boulevard and bordered by the river and Timuquana Country Club, the Westside communities have beautiful vistas galore.

The private country club (where PGA Tour golfer David Duval's father Bob was once head pro) is a buffer from the hustle and bustle of the Jacksonville Naval Air Station, while the Timuquana Yacht Club also provides rest and relaxation on the river for its members.

The homes are older but beautifully kept, with manicured expansive lawns. While you might be able to find a house in the nearby area for less, most are in the multi-hundred thousands. On the river, of course, prices can reach $1 million-plus.

Venetia students are served by many excellent schools, including Venetia Elementary, which scored an A in the 2002 Florida Comprehensive Assessment Test.

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